January 2007

I didn't think I'd have much to write about for January.  I had no field trips this month, hence no Plants & Field Trips page.  However, I managed to fill my days, especially with the help of the laptop David brought for me.

January was the halfway point of my grant, and therefore I was required to fill out a midterm report for the Institute of International Education.  The report wasn't too much work, though it required some careful preparations.  As a fellow Fulbrighter found out, the report can only be completed using Internet Explorer.  Luckily I had brought the paperwork with my grant number to the Philippines, because the number was needed to start the form.  The report mostly included questions about application procedures, arriving in the country, finances, and cultural adjustments.  The finance section was a bit of a pain - while I have kept track of almost every peso I've spent, I didn't have my spending arranged by month into the categories listed in the report.  It took me a whole day to enter everything into an Excel spreadsheet and tally the numbers.  The other pain was that the webpage with the report automatically closed after 20 minutes, without giving a warning or saving data.  I had to redo a whole page of responses, even though I'm not convinced I had been typing for 20 minutes - I had checked my watch when I started.

I attended one Fulbright end-of-grant presentation during January.  The presenter had been studying children of OFWs (overseas Filipino workers).  In the city where she studied, 10% of the population was overseas, with 70% of those being women.  It's easier for women to get work, as domestic helpers or as nurses, than it is for men to find work abroad.  A sad but true statement is that the Philippines' number one export is its people, and many of them who leave never come back on a permanent basis.  Middle-class people are the most likely to leave, because they can afford the fees involved in applying for visas, paying for airfare, and supporting themselves for up to 2 months without a job in a new country.  Once they have jobs, much of their income may be sent back to family in the Philippines, making it difficult for them to save money for their own return.  Others leave because it's hard for them to find jobs here.  Many skilled professionals can make a much better living abroad.  Some of my family members are considering moving to New Zealand - it costs too much to apply to Canada or the US.

The other Fulbright activities of January included finally getting fingerprinted for my Alien Certificate of Registration, or ACR, which will serve as my exit clearance for the country.  If I were leaving before my grant ended, to visit another country, I'd have to apply for a Special Return Certificate.  I'm not sure why an SRC is required - all Fulbrighters have multiple entry visas - but the SRC costs about P550 and expires a month after the application is submitted.  I wonder if business travelers apply for a new SRC every month, or if they have some other option.  I also had a meeting with the Director of the Philippine-American Education Foundation, to go over  my grant progress and what my plans were for the remainder of my time here.  I have quite a few collecting trips planned for the spring - it will be interesting to see how many of them actually happen.

I bought a number of books in January.  While David was visiting in December, we tried to go to the Libros Filipinos bookstore at the Filipino Heritage Library, but the library was closed.  When I revisited, it was open.  The bookstore section is right behind the front desk.  Eventually I found the environment section, but many of the books I wanted to buy weren't on the shelf even though the bookstore's on-line catalog said they were in stock.  I bought a book on tropical fruits of the Philippines, though it really seemed like the title should be tropical fruits of Malaysia and Thailand, and a handbook of mangroves of Panay.  Everything else I wanted was sold out, and the man behind the desk implied that they were permanently out of stock.  He suggested that I try Bookmark, the publisher of some of the titles.

I had to save the trip to Bookmark for another day.  Finding it was an adventure.  I like maps, and I have a map of Manila.  I also bought a city atlas at National Bookstore, but I didn't have either one with me when I set off on foot to find Ocampo Drive.  I knew that it more or less paralleled Buendia, but as I walked more and more blocks north of Buendia, I decided that I'd have to take a taxi to find the street.  The driver nodded when I told him where I wanted to go, but I had to show him the address again and again, and we drove around for 20 minutes before finding the right stretch of Ocampo.  Ocampo is also called Vito Cruz, and the bookstore is actually on the extension part of the street, in Makati City.  The street is one way, which made it a bit tricky to find the right block.  Eventually we found it and I headed into the store.  I was able to buy most of the titles that I wanted and that they published, but one, a field guide to mangroves, seagrasses, and algae, was no longer printed and they had sold the last copy just two days before.  I was very disappointed, but it's just as well because I had barely enough cash to pay for the books I could buy.

A very long walk later, I found myself back on Buendia.  I had reasoned that if I headed south, I'd reach the street, but I hadn't counted on roads that formed closed neighbor hoods and that changed direction.  Once I found Filmore Street, though, I knew it would intersect Buendia.  On Buendia, I took my first jeepney ride in Manila because there were no buses in sight.  Jeepneys can be tricky because you have to know where to get off, but I've been to the LRT station on Buendia enough times to recognize it.  I took the LRT to United Nations station and arrived at the National Museum, which houses the Philippine National Herbarium (PNH), in the middle of lunch.

Back in September, during my first few days in the country, I had visited the museum briefly, but I hadn't met the director, Dr. Madulid.  He was expecting me this time, though, and once the office opened after lunch, I had a short meeting with him before going to see the collections on the third floor.  The herbarium has been temporarily housed in the museum for a number of years.  The main collection is in wooden cases in a large room that was designed as an art gallery.  The floor is polished parquet, one wall is a bank of windows with tables and chairs pushed up against it, and the lighting includes strong spotlights that are meant to highlight works of art.  The room has air conditioning, which only the museum technicians know how to operate, and the smell of mothballs is overpowering.  I am sure that working in the herbarium is bad for my health.  Besides the napthalene, I am exposed to the mercury that was used to poison all the older specimens and to the soot that comes in the cracks by the windows from the highway that runs right by the museum.  My fingers turned black from handling the specimens - years of exhaust particles have settled on each sheet.  Despite the various chemicals, the herbarium has insect problems.  To some extent, every herbarium has insect problems, but they tend to be worse in tropical areas where money may not be available to build tight buildings, buy cases that seal, or run a control program that might include freezing specimens.  I've found some specimens where all that remains is the veins of the leaves and a crumbly pile of insect droppings.

Despite its problems, I find the herbarium a nice place to work.  The lighting is good, I can plug in my computer right near the cabinet that has the Gomphandra specimens, and I am usually the only person in the room, which means I can play music as I work.  The curatorial staff are short-handed, and though some of my references extensively cite specimens from PNH, none of the specimens I've seen had been annotated.  Many were still filed under old names, and it was clear that no one had gone through them after volume 7 of Flora Malesiana was published.  I got in the habit of visiting the herbarium twice a week, which makes for two very long days, and I started by just looking to see what was in the collections.  When I first visited the herbarium, I couldn't find any Gomphandra folders - they were reportedly in a work room, being repaired.  I've seen no evidence of any repair work, but I found that almost none of the Gomphandra specimens had been identified as species of Gomphandra.  Many of them were filed under Medusanthera or Urandra.

PNH has a few type specimens of Gomphandra, mostly not Philippine or repatriated from other herbaria.  During World War II, the Japanese burned the herbarium, and all the Philippine Gomphandra specimens which probably represented holotypes, or should have been designated lectotypes, were destroyed.  I know that at least 24 specimens of Gomphandra were destroyed; the actual number was probably much higher.  I looked at type specimens first, then moved on to photograph all of the Philippine specimens.  The herbarium also has quite a collection of Gomphandra and Stemonurus specimens from Malaysia, Indonesia, and Papua New Guinea, but I'll wait to deal with those.  During my next visit, I worked on annotating specimens according to Sleumer's 1969 determinations so that I could sort all the Stemonuraceae specimens into appropriate folders.  By the end of the month, I had begun to collect data from the Philippine specimens.

I have established an herbarium visiting routine.  If I catch a bus at 7 a.m., I can get to the herbarium around 9:30.  The third floor herbarium room is always locked, so I head to the fourth floor and stop in to see Dr. Madulid.  We have coffee (I normally do not drink coffee) and discuss taxonomy issues, then one of the curatorial assistants unlocks the herbarium and I work until 4 p.m.  If I leave at 5 p.m., it takes at least three hours to get home, instead of two.  I've purchased a stored value LRT card, which speeds up the trip a bit, but rush hour is truly awful in Manila.

The best thing about January involved my herbarium visits.  During my second visit, several women came into the collection room while I was working there.  Two of them had come up from UP Los Baños.  I already knew Mary Ann Cajano, who works in the University's CAHUP herbarium, and I had just met Dr. Siar, who works on Hoya, in Dr. Madulid's office.  The other woman, Julie Barcelona, is in charge of the fern collection at PNH.  She introduced herself and invited me to join them for lunch.  I found out that Julie went to Miami University, in Ohio, and that her husband was there.  That was the start of our friendship, and I have the feeling that it will be a long one.  She also introduced me to Leonard Co the following week.  I had come across Leonard's name before, so I was delighted to meet him.  When I started visiting PNH to study specimens, I didn't expect to make such valuable connections with other botanists and perhaps have the opportunity to join them on collecting trips.  Julie lets me use her dissection scope and also gives me coffee, thus ensuring that I don't fall asleep on the bus ride home and miss my stop.

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Last updated: February 4, 2007