Scarebird Front Disc Swap: Why?

The Granada swap can create suspension geometry problems in 65-66 Mustangs, and it's just not worth it at $150 for junkyard parts and $400 in new parts.

The SSBC, MPB, Baer, and Wilwood kits were WAY too much $$ for my taste and I wanted something I could buy replacement  parts for anywhere.

The Rod & Custom RC132 kit required trimming the steering stops. Scarebird used the same parts and moved the calipers to a spot where they didn't hit anything. I can't believe R&C didn't do the same, it seems like an awfully simple mistake if you ask me.

Scarebird sent me some oddball brackets that were too big to fit inside the rotor, so the rotors wouldn't spin. After a couple rants on the Internet, he FINALLY offered  an exchange, and I got the old-type brackets. They look COMPLETELY different; these were designed to fit under the rotor hat. They work, imagine that!

Now, the way to go is chockostang or www.discbrakeswap.com. New factory disc brakes for under $600 and no BS.


Scarebird Front Disc Swap: How-To:

First, I jacked the car up, took the wheel off and removed the cotter key and center nut.
Next, I made sure that the shoes were de-adjusted and the drum was actually willing to come off and took the drum off. In the 15 or so years since the brake rebuild, no one had bothered to adjust the brakes, or even hook them up, so everything was like new and I didn't have to fight the star wheels.
Next, if there had been one, I would have had to unbolt the flexible line from the wheel cylinder. They are still in the attic, in the box. LOL
Now, I unbolted backing plate as an assembly, wheel cylinder, shoes, hardware, and all. Made life easy.
Next is to clean up the spindle where the brackets mount, so they sit 110% flush. If one was to get paranoid enough, you could cut up a cereal box for a new paper gasket and waterproof it with some glue. I'm cheating and replacing the spindles.
Now that everything is ready, it's time for new bolts, as the wierd factory bolts are a no-go. If memory serves, they are (3) 9/16"x1" and (1) 9/16"x1.5" (the bolt nearest the steering stop).
Now, it's time to bolt that sucker on with new, packed bearings, grease seals and all that, and reassemble.
Hook 'em up, install new MC, bench bleed, bleed a zillion times...volia, brakes!

Now I just have to order the lines, MC, pads, and calers to test fit the rest and then hook this stufthe next pa 

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