WSJ Research

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02/28/02
Dr. David Chappell
Ian Beers
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The Company Profiling the Competition
An Unstable Marketplace The Customers
The Future The Sources

The Company
The May Department Stores Company, based in St. Louis, is one of America’s leading department store companies; a $14 billion retailer operating 439 department stores under the names of Lord & Taylor, Hecht's, Strawbridge's, Foley's, Robinsons-May, Filene's, Kaufmann's, Famous-Barr, L.S. Ayres, The Jones Store, and Meier & Frank, as well as 150 David's Bridal stores, 240 After Hours stores, and 10 Priscilla of Boston stores.  May operates in 44 states, the District of Columbia, as well as Puerto Rico.  My Wall Street Journal research was conducted on the May Department Stores Company from January 3, 2002, to February 27, 2002. 

Source 4:
Paying $5 million, May Department Stores Company bought the Knot, Inc. for a 19.5% stake in the company.  Under terms of the deal, the Knot will link its wedding planning site to the wedding gift-registry sites of May’s department stores.  May and the Knot will implement a marketing campaign to promote some of the stores, including Hecht’s, Foley’s, and Kaufmann’s.  May will now have representation on the Knot’s board, based in New York, as well. 


Profiling The Competition

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Dillard's Inc. Sears, Roebuck & Co.
Federated Department Stores The Limited
Specialty Apparel Stores

Dillard's Inc.
Source 3: 
In a play that some called morbid, investors bought up shares of Dillard's Inc. on news that William T. Dillard, its 87-year-old founder and chairman, had died.  The shares were sent higher on speculation that management at the troubled department-store chain might be quicker to sell the company to a competitor following the death of its founder.  The sense on Wall Street was that "once he dies, maybe they'll sell."

Analysts said that if Dillard's did put itself up for sale, the most likely buyers would include Federated Department Stores Inc., which operates the Macy's and Bloomingdale's chains, and May Department Stores Co., which operates Lord & Taylor.  "Acquisitions are always a part of our strategic approach to growing the business," responded Carol Sanger, a Federated spokeswoman. "But they have to be acquisitions that make sense form an operational and financial standpoint."  Mr. Sanger wouldn't comment specifically on whether Dillard's fit the profile of a possible Federated acquisition. A May spokeswoman said the company doesn't comment on talk of acquisitions.

For years, the Little Rock, Ark., retailer has resisted a consolidation trend in the department-store industry, choosing to remain independent while Federated and May have continued to acquire other chains.  As shoppers increasingly flock to discount stores and specialty-apparel shops, department-store chains in recent years have struggled to maintain profitability. Dillard's has suffered more than most department stores, beset with operational difficulties that have sent its stock price to about half its book value.

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Sears, Roebuck & Company
Source 1:
Meanwhile, American department store chain Sears, Roebuck & Co. is increasing competition by becoming more of a world-market player.  Eaton's, a Canadian retail icon for 133 years, will disappear with the announcement that Sears Canada is dropping the name from stores it took over in 1999.  The company that became part of Canada's social fabric, its Christmas catalog as much an institution as the Sears catalog in the U.S., has existed in name only since Sears Canada bought what remained of the company three years ago.

Now even the name will be gone, further evidence for Canadians worried that U.S. brands are taking over in their country. Sears Canada said it is making the change because customers are spending less money at Eaton's stores, which are more expensive than Sears.  The company may also close two of the remaining seven stores, cutting as many as 600 jobs. It said employees whose jobs are cut would get the chance to apply for other positions in the company.  A division of U.S.-based Sears, Roebuck & Co., Sears Canada acquired 19 Eaton's locations in 1999 and has converted 12 of them to Sears stores. It said those stores are performing at or above expectations. 

Eaton's and other department stores were hit hard by a lingering recession in the 1990s that curtailed consumer spending. Tough competition from discount chains such as U.S.-based Wal-Mart also hurt its performance.

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Federated Department Stores
Source 11:
Discount chains have hurt department store sales across the board.  Federated Department Stores Inc. swung to a hefty loss in the fourth quarter on a decline in sales and a big loss related to the disposal of its ailing Fingerhut operations, but the retailer nudged up the earnings outlook for the current fiscal year.  For the fourth quarter ended Feb. 2, the Cincinnati, Ohio, parent of Macy's and Bloomingdale's posted a loss of $447 million, or $2.23 a share, compared with net income of $332 million, or $1.65 a share, a year earlier. The results included a $770 million loss on the disposal of its discontinued Fingerhut operations, which Federated plans to shutter or sell, as well as a host of reorganization costs related to the closing of the Stern's chain; the integration of Liberty House, a Hawaiian department store chain Federated bought last year; and the reorganization of Macys.com, Bloomingdales.com and Bloomingdale's By Mail catalog.

Sales for the recent quarter fell 8.4% to $5.13 billion from $5.6 billion, partly because of the closing of Stern's. But sales at stores open at least a year, a crucial measure for retailers, were weak: Same-store sales for the quarter fell 6%; comparable-calendar same-store sales fell 3.9%. The year-ago period contained an extra week, and the comparable-calendar figure adjusts to compensate for that discrepancy.

"The challenge for all traditional department stores, including Federated, is to give consumers a reason to go there," said Christine Kilton-Augustine, an analyst at ABN Amro.  Private brands will be an important way for traditional department stores to set themselves apart, and that Federated has an advantage because it already has well-developed private brands.  Some analysts speculated that Federated would seek to grow through an acquisition. "Clearly that's why they've got so much cash and why they're being pretty cautious with share repurchases," said Linda Kristiansen, an analyst at UBS Warburg. "Some time in the next 12 to 18 months I think we'll see some opportunities." She said some of the small to midsize department-store chains could be likely targets, but did not speculate as to which ones.

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The Limited
Souce 12:
Limited Inc. named an executive from the ailing Federated Department Stores Inc. to the post of chief executive officer of its namesake Limited Stores division, effective March 4.  Jeffrey Sherman, 53 years old, has been CEO of Federated's Federated Direct unit, its direct-to-consumer business that includes Macys.com, Bloomingdale's by Mail catalog and the embattled Fingerhut catalog and Internet business. Federated said he resigned from that post, effective March 1.  As CEO for Limited Stores, Sherman succeeds Rob Bernard, who resigned from that post a few weeks ago. Limited Stores had 381 stores as of Jan. 5. For the year ended Feb. 3, 2001, Limited Stores had sales of $672.6 million.

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Specialty Apparel Chains
Source 6:
Orv Madden, a former Federated Department Stores Inc. buyer, opened the first Hot Topic in a Montclair, Calif., shopping mall in 1989 -- a time when hip teens had a grunge, anti-fashion sentiment and no place in the mall they wanted to shop.  Today, Hot Topic Inc. is host to 346 locations.  Teens from this world are turned off by chain stores like Abercrombie & Fitch and Wet Seal, whose tummy-bearing tops and cargo pants are aimed at tanned, athletic-looking "popular" teens.  Instead, alienated, angst-ridden, "alternative" kids shop at Hot Topic for fishnet stockings, blue hair dye and black nail polish.

Roughly 17% of American high school students consider themselves "alternative," while only 11% view themselves as "popular," according to a survey of 2,000 teens conducted last year by Teenage Research Unlimited, a market-research company. The largest groups are those who call themselves "average," mostly Gap and American Eagle shoppers, followed by the less-selective "nerds" and "bookworms," who mostly buy clothes at JCPenney, Kaufmann’s and Target, the survey says.

One reason for its success is its near-monopoly at the mall on "alternative" fashion. Most malls are filled with stores aimed at mainstream kids. But "Hot Topic has virtually no competition," says Jennifer Black, an analyst at Wells Fargo Van Kasper.  It used to take work to find all this stuff -- which is one reason why many teens simultaneously love and hate the store. By making weird fashions accessible to mall goers across the country, the chain strips dedicated nonconformists of a bit of their originality.  It’s this oddball merchandise that helped Hot Topic avoid the drastic markdowns that plagued malls during the holidays. Ellen Schlossburg, an analyst at William Blair & Co., estimates Hot Topic marked down about 10% of its stock. "Everywhere else, that number was around 60% or 70%," she says.

Hot Topic's sales rose to $336.1 million in fiscal 2001 from $43.6 million in fiscal 1996, while its profit climbed to about $28 million, according to analysts' estimates, from $2 million in the same five years. While Gap, American Eagle and other teen retailers reported fourth-quarter sales that were flat to declining, Hot Topic posted a 3.8% increase in same-store sales. It plans to add 85 stores in 2002, including 15 in a new chain called Torrid, which will be aimed at plus-size teen girls.

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An Unstable Marketplace
"...the wost holiday season in a decade."
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Trouble at the Gap Spiegel Down, Nordstrom Up
Attention Kmart Shoppers

Source 2:
The bad news for the stock market doesn't seem to end.  First there was Enron's collapse, then Kmart's bankruptcy filing, then news from Global Crossing that the Securities and Exchange Commission is investigating its books. Analysts even have raised questions about the accounting at corporate giants Tyco International and Cisco Systems.  Soon, the optimists say, all these nasty surprises will have to stop, and the budding economic recovery will begin to capture investors' attention.  History confirms what a lot of stock analysts and investors have been discovering to their chagrin lately -- that burst bubbles and accounting controversies tend to go hand in hand.  Accounting scandals and bankruptcies, in fact, are one important reason that it can take the stock market years to recover fully from a bubble.

On top of that, analysts have repeatedly had to revise earnings estimates downwards, and worries have spread about whether the economy can stage a sustained recovery.  Accountants, once among the nation's most trusted professionals, are accused of helping hide wrongdoing and of misleading investors.  Some market analysts worry that these problems aren't going to go away soon.  "It is absolutely what almost invariably happens after every bubble," says investment strategist Barton Biggs at Morgan Stanley, referring to the scandals, bankruptcies and accounting disclosures. "You should expect them... The bigger the binge, the longer and more severe the hangover."

The root of the accounting problem is that stock-market bubbles reward aggressive accounting, since it inflates earnings and helps push up companies' stock prices. As bubbles develop and the continued inflation of stock prices becomes paramount, conservative accountants and executives become discredited, and bending the rules becomes standard.

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Trouble At The Gap
Source 7:
As it reported fourth-quarter and fiscal-year losses, Gap Inc. shuffled executives again at its flagship Gap brand and said it will issue $1 billion in convertible notes to shore up its balance sheet.  In response to the discouraging sales trends, the retailer played musical chairs once more with its executives. It named company veteran Marka Hansen an executive vice president overseeing adult merchandise for its Gap brand, a new position. The retailer also divided responsibilities within the Gap division for men's and women's adult merchandising. Nancy Green, formerly responsible for all adult merchandise, will be in charge of the women's portion, while Tracy Gardner, previously head of men's merchandising for sister chain Banana Republic, will take the same role at Gap.

For the quarter ending this past February 2, the nation's largest specialty-apparel retailer swung to a net loss of $34.2 million, or four cents a share. Weaker sales and falling gross margins produced the poor performance, Gap said.  At the Gap chain, flip-flopping merchandise strategies have confused customers and failed to turn sales around. Edgy, '80s-inspired styles flopped in the fall. Bland beige sweaters performed poorly during the holidays. Fourth-quarter sales fell 11%, to $4.09 billion from $4.58 billion, marking the second consecutive quarter that top-line sales fell despite new store openings. Sales at stores open at least a year, or same-store sales, tumbled 16%, continuing a string of declines that has stretched for nearly two years. The chain's current fashions -- button-down shirts in classic colors, simple jackets and countless styles of khaki pants -- are reminiscent of the basic styles that made Gap famous. But they don't seem to be working: So far this month, same-store sales are down 17%.

Last year was "our most difficult year ever," Chief Executive Millard Drexler said in a statement.  For the year, Gap swung to a net loss of $7.8 million, or a penny a share, from prior-year net of $877.5 million, or $1 a share.  Although Gap has drastically scaled back expansion plans, analysts say the retailer needs to go further and close stores.

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Speigel Down, Nordstrom Up
Source 8: 
Spiegel Group Inc. posted dismal fourth-quarter results and said it plans to sell its credit-card business, while Nordstrom Inc. matched the fourth-quarter earnings estimate that it raised last week.  For the quarter ended Dec. 29, Spiegel reported a net loss of $378.1 million, or $2.86 a share.  The company said the projected loss on the sale was based on market valuations for the credit-card business, which had been losing money. As a result, it expects to sell the division in the second quarter and has found several interested parties.  The company is working closely with its bank group to restructure its credit facilities and expects to have new financing arrangements by mid-April.

Spiegel said it needed to sell the credit-card unit to focus on its retail business, which has been floundering, with fourth-quarter revenue falling 13%, to $1.01 billion from $1.16 billion a year earlier. At Eddie Bauer stores open at least a year, sales dropped 20%.  Spiegel said it hired consulting firm McKinsey & Co. to review Eddie Bauer's strategies. The company said it will close a net 40 Eddie Bauer stores this year.  "Retail today is quite challenging and requires a lot of capital," said Martin Zaepfel, Spiegel vice chairman and chief executive. Spiegel , which operates several catalog divisions and the Eddie Bauer apparel and home-furnishings chain, said it plans to continue offering customers credit through a third party.

Nordstrom, meanwhile, boosted by better than expected sales and expense controls, said fiscal fourth-quarter earnings jumped 88%. The upscale retailer posted net income of $50.7 million, or 38 cents a share, up from $27 million, or 20 cents, a year earlier. Last week, Nordstrom raised its fourth-quarter earnings guidance to between 36 cents and 38 cents a share, from a range of 27 cents to 31 cents.

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Attention Kmart Shoppers
Source 9:
Kmart Corp.’s Bluelight.com online store is still open.  But the retailer’s recent bankruptcy filing puts the future of its e-commerce operation in doubt.  In January, Kmart filed for chapter 11 bankruptcy, making it the largest retailer ever to file for bankruptcy.  Lacking the resources to compete with competitors like Walmart.com and Target.com, the beleaguered retailer will likely shut down the site or slash any further investment, analysts say.  Bluelight acknowledges the site’s future is up in the air, but says that until its parent company’s restructuring plans are finalized, it is business as usual. 

Bluelight has had trouble keeping up with other discount retailers, such as Sears, Roebuck & Co. and J.C. Penney Co., which have expanded their online operations to allow customers to pick up and return online orders in person at stores.  Kmart wouldn’t be the first bricks-and-mortar retailer to retrench online.  Federated Department Stores Inc. next month plans to overhaul its e-commerce sites for Bloomingdales.com and Macys.com.  For the period from February 1, 2001, to July 31, 2001, Bluelight had net sales of $8 million, and a net loss of $55 million.  Also, less than 1% of people who visited Bluelight.com in the fourth quarter actually made a purchase on the site.  Bluelight has 44 employees today, down from 220 this time last year. 

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The Customers
Despite Low Sales, Customer Satisfaction is High
Source 5:
Customer satisfaction at Kmart leapt in 2001 from a year earlier, even as the company was barreling toward a bankruptcy filing, according to a quarterly University of Michigan survey of consumer attitudes about a wide variety of companies and brands.  Kmart's improvement came as part of an overall increase in satisfaction for the retail sector in 2001, according to the university. And while Kmart still lags behind many other retailers in making its Bluelight shoppers happy, the apparent gain could mark a dash of hopeful news for the company, which doesn't expect to emerge from bankruptcy proceedings until 2003. 

Customer satisfaction appeared to be rising throughout the economy during the final months of the year, which the University of Michigan says should help to underpin consumer spending in the months ahead. Its overall index of satisfaction rose for the first time in 15 months, to its highest level since the final months of 2000. Much of that improvement was the result of heavy price-cutting, which bolsters customer satisfaction because it leads consumers to feel that they are getting more for their money.  There is a tight link between customer satisfaction and consumer spending. As consumers perceive greater value and satisfaction with what they buy, they are likely to spend more money, and because the overall, economy-wide index improved, this suggests that spending might prove to be stronger than expected early this year. 

Online retailers outshone their bricks-and-mortar counterparts, thanks in large part to high marks from merchants like Amazon.com Inc. and Barnes & Noble.com Inc. Amazon's score, at 84, was unchanged from the previous year and was the highest of any single company in the latest quarterly survey.
Federated Department Stores showed no improvement over last year’s numbers, while May Department Stores Company and Dillard’s Department Stores Inc. both received a satisfaction rating of 75, a 4.2 percent improvement over the previous year.  Sears, Roebuck & Co. showed a 4.1 percent increase on the year, while J.C. Penney only showed 1.4 percent improvement in customer satisfaction.

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The Future
The Market Shows Healthy Gaines in January... For Some
Source 10:
Discount retailers triumphed over full-price sellers in January, with the better-than-expected results at many discount chains prompting some speculation that the retail slump may be easing. Wal-Mart Stores Inc. and the Target division of Target Corp. excelled as shoppers continued to show their enthusiasm for low prices, convenience and smart merchandising. Both chains also benefited from the easing of price wars in the days that followed Kmart Corp.'s Chapter 11 bankruptcy-protection filing. Kohl's Corp. and Costco Wholesale Corp. each posted better-than-expected results, indicating that shoppers continue to vote for good values with their pocketbooks.

Analysts said January contributes only about 20% to 25% of fourth-quarter revenue (most retail fiscal years end in January), and about 5% to 9% of annual revenue, so it is risky to draw sweeping conclusions from the month's results. But with the exception of J.C. Penney Co., the misery of old-line department stores and full-price specialty apparel stores stood in sharp contrast with accelerating strength at their discount and value rivals. Gap Inc. also continued to flounder.  Consumers continue to favor necessities over discretionary items.
As a group, traditional department stores continued to search for a closer relationship with their customers. 

Federated Department Stores Inc., the Cincinnati parent of Macy's and Bloomingdale's, reported an 8.8% same-store sales decline at its department stores. May Department Stores Co. saw same-store sales fall 10.7%.  Sears, Roebuck & Co., Hoffman Estates, Ill., posted a domestic same-store sales decrease of 3.4%.  J.C. Penney, Plano, Texas, bucked the department-store blues with a 5.9% rise in same-store department-store sales.  A number of specialty apparel chains also are under pressure. Abercrombie & Fitch Co., a teen and college-age retailer, saw same-store sales fall 14%. Charming Shoppes Inc., the Bensalem, Pa., owner of Lane Bryant and Fashion Bug, said same-store sales fell 4%.

AnnTaylor Stores Corp. topped expectations with a 14.6% same-store sales increase. Same-store sales rose 16.2% at its Ann Taylor division and 11.8% at its lower-priced Ann Taylor Loft unit.  Few are doing as poorly as Gap Inc., which suffered a 16% same-store sales decline that followed a 12% decline in the year-earlier period. The specialty retailer continues to miss with its merchandise selection and has alienated many once-loyal older customers. Its chains posted negative same-store sales on top of a prior-year decline. Gap domestic plunged 22%; Gap International fell 16%; Banana Republic declined 7%; and Old Navy fell 14%.

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The Sources
1. Associated Press.  "Eaton’s Name to Finally Disappear After Surviving Takeover by Sears," Wall Street Journal, February 18, 2002.
back to "Profiling the Competition: Sears, Roebuck & Co."
2. Browning, E.S.  "Burst Bubbles Expose Cooked Books, Bring SEC Probes and Bankruptcies," Wall Street Journal, February 11, 2002.
back to "An Unstable Marketplace"
3. Covert, James.  "William Dillard’s Death Sends Retailer’s Shares 87% Higher," Wall Street Journal, February 8, 2002.
back to "Profiling the Competition"
4.Dow Jones Newswire.  "May Buys 19.5% Stake in the Knot," Wall Street Journal, February 25, 2002. http://online.wsj.com/article /0,,SB1014658718445523160.djm,00.html
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5. Hilsenrath, Jon E.  "Retailers Kept Customers Happy, According to a Satisfaction Survey," Wall Street Journal, February 19, 2002.
back to "The Customers"
6. Tkacik, Maureen.  "’Alternative’ Teens Are Hip To Hot Topic’s Mall Stores," Wall Street Journal, February 12, 2002.
back to "Profiling the Competition: Specialty Apparel Stores"
7. Merrick, Amy.  "Weak Sales Lead to Loss at Gap; Retailer Shuffles Top Executives," Wall Street Journal, February 27, 2002.
back to "An Unstable Marketplace: Trouble at the Gap"
8. Merrick, Amy.  "Spiegel Posts $378.1 Million Loss As Nordstrom Reports Strong Net," Wall Street Journal, February 22, 2002.
back to "An Unstable Marketplace: Spiegel Down, Nordstrom Up"
9. Miles, Stephanie.  "Kmart’s Bankruptcy Filing Leaves Future of Bluelight.com in Limbo," Wall Street Journal, January 23, 2002.
back to "An Unstable Marketplace: Attention Kmart Shoppers"
10. White, Erin.  "Discount Retailers Score With Shoppers As January Sales Make Healthy Gaines," Wall Street Journal, February 8, 2002.
back to "The Future" (not the movie)
11. White, Erin.  "Federated Swings to Loss On Disposal of Fingerhut," Wall Street Journal, February 27, 2002.
back to "Profiling the Competition: Federated Department Stores"
12. "Limited Names Federated Executive As Its New Chief Executive Officer," Wall Street Journal, February 22, 2002.
back to "Profiling the Competition: The Limited"

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