Rayner was at once intriguing and again sad. It was
located just south of US 380 about 8.5 miles east of Aspermont. The
only structure left is the old Stonewall County courthouse, which is now a
private residence for a ranch. There is also the Rayner Cemetery, which
was one of the saddest things I've seen. Regarding the old
courthouse, it sits about 3/10 of a mile south of US 380, and it's visible from
the road. I drove down the road/driveway and snapped a picture. It
looks better than it did when Baker photographed it in 1984 in that it seems to
have been fixed up. The cemetery is about 2.2 miles south of US
380 down a county road that is about 0.1 mile east of the road leading to the
courthouse. The cemetery sits off to the east about 75 yards from the
road, but there is an access way (almost a driveway) that allows you to drive
right up to the gate. Unlike every other cemetery that I saw on my trip,
this one has been neglected. It was noted by Baker as being neglected when
he photographed it in 1984, and it looked no different today. This
surprised me because every other forgotten-town cemetery I saw
was still meticulously kept and still in use in that there are burials more
recent than the time the town was active. But, for some reason, this cemetery, which
doesn't have many graves anyway, has been allowed to deteriorate.
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This
is the old Stonewall County courthouse in what was Rayner as photographed by
Baker in 1984. Note the stone historical marker in the front left. |
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This
is that same courthouse structure on October 31, 1999. Because it's a
private residence now, I didn't get too close to take the picture. But the
building is in better shape now, having received repairs and fresh paint.
There are also more trees around it now. The historical marker is still
there, visible just above the wheels of the right of the two cannons in the left
foreground. Since there is a historical marker, I wondered if they would
have minded if I had come closer to read the marker and admire the house. But
I didn't stay to ask!
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Information added January 17, 2006:
I received an email from Brian Garner, who passed along this information
about the Stonewall County Courthouse:
"According to the ladies in the
Aspermont library, the Rayner courthouse was going to be used as the
ranch house movie set for the film "Giant" starring James Dean.
However, the owner(s) didn't approve of the modifications that the film
crew wanted to make so they ended up shooting the film near Marfa, Texas
and built a facade to use as the ranch house. It was supposedly modeled
after the courthouse." |
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The upper of these two photos is
the entrance to the old Rayner Cemetery. The access road and the entrance to
the cemetery both seemed to be in reasonable shape, so it seems that, in spite
of its neglected condition, the cemetery did have at least somewhat regular
visitors. As I noted above, all of the other cemeteries I visited on my
trip were well cared for. They were also fenced off, although, because
they are not large, one could still get close enough to read and photograph many
interesting grave markers. But this had, to the right of the gate, a small
revolving door-type entrance to let people in, so I went in.
The lower shot is just one view of the interior of the cemetery. Note how overgrown it
is, how neglected the tombstones are, and how few graves there are overall. |
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A
photograph taken by Baker in 1984 of one of the burial sites (a family burial
site, apparently) in the Rayner Cemetery. |
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A photograph of the family burial site above taken
by me on October 31, 1999 from an identical vantage point. Things
are virtually unchanged after 15 years except for the little, rounded
tombstone seen in the upper photo in the middle of the burial site.
That tombstone is still there (see below), but it had fallen over. I
did not think I should start fooling around and stand things up again, but
it seemed sad that no one else would tend to these stones. I found a
number that had fallen over. Note also the general deterioration of
the stone wall surrounding the site as well as the continued growth of
brush around it. The large, dead, bent over tree trunk in the
foreground in the first picture is still there, but it has been cut back
(whether naturally or by human intervention, I don't know).
By the way, note the dark sky in this
photo! This photo was taken looking east. It was threatening
rain, and the dark sky in the background seems to fit perfectly to the
scene. The foreground is so bright because the sky directly overhead
was clear. The line of a weather front was right overhead as I took
this. |
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This
upper of these two photos is of the fallen-over tombstone that is standing upright in the center
of the burial site in the 1984 picture above. Reading the inscription, one
can see that the gravestone is for a child, William Cooper McClaren, born September 25, 1884 and died
March 6, 1890. His age of 5 years and 5 months is written at the
bottom. The larger stone in the burial is for his mother, M. A.
McClaren, who died at the age of 33 in 1891, one year after her son
died. There are tributes to both
William and his
mother at Find A
Grave. The lower photo here is of one of the few tall
tombstones that hadn't fallen over.
I noted that a large number of the other graves
were for children and, in one place, there is a line of five small tombstones
(see photo below),
all apparently the children of the same couple, and all having died within a few
days or weeks of birth in the 1890s. It was an incredibly sad scene.
The stones themselves, while tilted and falling, were still well preserved with
easy to read inscriptions.
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The upper
photo here is of those five small children's graves I mentioned above. It was the
saddest thing. I looked around, but I couldn't find the graves of the parents.
The lower photo is of a
tombstone that has fallen over. It is for a child who was named Carl
Lanier. He was 11 years old when he was bitten by a rattlesnake
and later died in spite of his parents' heroic efforts to get him to a
doctor in nearby Anson, Texas. The horses were run so hard that
they died as well. His
story is also at Find A Grave.
Below is a close-up of the stone, and you can just make
out the full word "Carl," the "nier" in Lanier, the "orn" in born, and
the "ed" in died, as well as the years "1880" and "1891." |
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A
completely fallen-apart burial site (upper photo). The metal fencing is rusted and
falling down. The graves are completely obscured.
Access
to the cemetery was easy. That's my rental car in the picture, and it
wasn't even a pickup truck or sport-utility vehicle! |
I
couldn't understand why this cemetery was not being cared for. Two or
three people with some pry bars and two-by-fours could probably have straightened
up or reset all the fallen tombstones (none were very large) in an hour or
two. I wonder if the fact that there were so few graves overall was
connected in some way. Perhaps this cemetery was abandoned and a new one
for the town of Rayner constructed somewhere else, although I don't know why
this would be done. This cemetery is somewhat off the beaten path in the middle of
open range country, but I found it with no trouble, and it was more easily
accessible than some of the others I saw. Maybe it was because of the
large percentage of the graves that were for children. Perhaps the place
was considered jinxed. Who knows? It was the eeriest place I visited
on my trip. On August
24, 2006, I received an email from a fellow who informed me that some people
have started at least in some small way to preserve what's left of the Rayner
Cemetery. They have created a website where they have recorded the
inscriptions on some of the gravestones where they are still legible. The
link to that site is
ftp://ftp.rootsweb.com/pub/usgenweb/tx/stonewall/cemetery/rayner.txt.
There doesn't appear to have been anything new added to these descriptions since
2000, but at least its something. |